Leeks can wait all winter in the vege garden and be ready when you want them, but you need to time their sowing so they are big enough before growth slows in the really cold part of the winter.  Then, along with carrots and celery (which you also might have managed to grow in time), there will always be a flavourful base ready for a winter soup or stew. You can sow a whole packet of leeks closely together (250 seeds were in my packet) and thin them as they grow (as you would baby carrots) – there is nothing as sweet and tender as a baby leek and you can eat them whole like asparagus- in French they are sometimes called l’asperge du pauvre – asparagus of the poor.

A long time before they became the national symbol of Wales (after a battle in a leekfield in 640 AD where the Welsh supposedly wore leeks in their helmets to distinguish themselves from the enemy) they were mentioned in the bible by the Israelites as they wandered the desert for 40 years: “Remember how in Egypt we had fish tor the asking, cucumbers, and watermelons, leeks and onions and garlic.” (Numbers 11:5). It is believed they were brought to England and Ireland by ancient Phoenicians or Romans. Now they are firmly entrenched many cuisines. In Egypt Korrat are stewed with caramelised garlic; Iran gives us a dish called Kuku Sabzi, a mixture of leeks, grated potatoes and eggs cooked on the stovetop; from Wales comes Cawl, a broth made since the middle ages from bacon, potatoes and leeks ; in Ireland they make Brotchan Foltchep, or leek and oatmeal soup and from Scotland comes Cock-a-leekie. Across the channel the French cook them a la niçoise with tomatoes and olives and in the elegant Vichyssoise, a chilled leek and potato soup enriched with cream; the Germans make a hearty soup with leeks and cheese.