Possibly the best argument for growing your own, baby leeks are a gourmet food you would never find anywhere else. Sow a whole packet of 250 seeds in late spring. Transplant a third of them to the winter leek bed and thin the rest to eat when they are tiny, like asparagus, teamed with a vinaigrette or this beautiful tomato and olive dish from the south of France.

Take some baby leeks, about 4 per person. Trim them and wash them well. Place in one layer in a pan, pour three tablespoons of olive oil over them and cover. Sweat over a low heat until they are soft and tender.  

Carefully remove them from the pan and arrange on a serving plate. Into the, by now, deliciously leeky olive oil place a crushed garlic clove and cook until fragrant. Pour in chopped tomatoes and their juice from a can – 8 leeks need about ¼ of a can. Cook this down until it is sticky, thick and concentrated then stir through a tablespoon or so of finely chopped parsley. Arrange the tomato on top of the leeks and garnish with halved and stoned olives. Serve at room temperature.