While reading about leeks last weekend I came across reference to a famous Welsh national dish called Cawl (pronounced Cowl). Meat and vegetables are cooked in a broth which is not thickened but instead reduced by long cooking to concentrate the flavours. I wanted to try it out.

Vegetables: There were many versions of this national dish, but in every version there are always leeks, onions, carrots, swede (or turnip) and potatoes. Sometimes parsnip. I had neither turnip nor swede so swapped that for a kohl rabi which had split in last week’s rain and needed to be eaten. I also saved the tender inner leaves of the kohl rabi to throw in at the end. This use of leafy greens is highly irregular, but I didn’t want to waste them.  I have parsnips, but there are only 4 left, and I really wanted to save those for more bowls of sunshine, so didn’t use. I threw in a celery stalk too, just because I could.  

Meat: most used is lamb neck chops (Wales is famous for the quality the lamb), sometimes with a bit of bacon, less commonly beef brisket or ham hock. I handily had a pack of organic lamb neck chops in the freezer so went with those. No recipes ever brown it first. Straight into the liquid it goes. 

Liquid: most often used is water, there were a couple of mentions of lamb stock. I had some chicken stock in the freezer. In it went. 

Herbs: some versions have none at all. Some use parsley, some thyme and some bay.  Wanting to avoid a fatty boil-up scenario, I used all three. 

The method: Some recipes throw the whole lot in the liquid and boil till done. Others add the veg later and the leeks in the last 10 minutes so they retain their integrity.  I opted to simmer the lamb chops in the stock for an hour and a half with the herbs and add the veges later, the leeks last of all. I also (again highly irregular) put the celery and leek outer leaves in with the chops (to take out later), not wanting to waste them or their flavour. Just about every recipe recommends putting the finished dish in the frig and eating it the next day because the flavour improves, also you have the added benefit of being able to scrape the fat off the top when it sets. This Cawl is for tonight’s dinner so too bad about the flavour, but because I am averse to boiled lamb fat, I decided to use my handy fat remover jug (pictured) to separate the fat and remove it while still in liquid form.  

And the verdict?? It was really nice, in a wholesome, good for the soul, nourishing way.  Gentle flavours, lots of vegetables, a nice broth, tender pieces of lamb.  The taste of leek deliciously permeated everything, and surprisingly the kohl rabi was a bonus, sweet and firm like broccoli stalks.  It wasn’t very filling though – in Wales they eat it with crusty bread and Caerphilly cheese.  

Here is the recipe 

Ingredients (served 2) 

• 4 lamb neck chops 
• 1.5 litres chicken stock 
• 1 carrot cut in chunks 
• 1 onion cut in chunks 
• 1 stalk celery cut into chunks 
• 1 kohl rabi cut into chunks, inner leaves reserved 
• 2 leeks sliced into rounds 
• 1 potato chopped into chunks 
• 3 bay leaves, bunch of parsley, 1 sprig thyme, salt and pepper 

Method 

1. Place the chops and chicken stock in a stewpot with the parsley stalks and thyme. Cover and boil for 90 minutes. Remove the chops and tease into chunks with two forks. Reserve. Skim the fat from the liquid. 

2. Put the lamb meat and bones back into the pot with the liquid. Bring back to the boil and throw in all the veg except the leeks and the kohl rabi greens, and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the leeks and greens for another five minutes or so until cooked. Serve sprinkled with the chopped parsley.